This article on Mark IV Disklavier SSD Conversion was originally contributed by Richard Zajac.
The Mark IV utilized a spinning hard disk, which was more than sufficient for the technology of its time. Even advanced systems like the Yamaha Disklavier don’t demand exceptionally fast read speeds, as piano notes aren’t played within microseconds of each other. However, spinning hard disks do come with inherent drawbacks:
Being mechanical, they are prone to failure, and are noisy. Additionally, during system updates, the limitations of their read and write speeds become evident, resulting in updates that can take nearly an hour to complete.
Whether you’ve chosen to upgrade because of the improved read/write speed, or you’ve simply arrived here because the hard drive has failed, or an update has been interrupted, read on!
First, you’ll need a new solid state drive with a minimum of 80 GB of storage capacity, as well as an IDE to SATA adapter. The 120 GB OWC Mercury Pro Legacy comes with all necessary components. (Note that, although Richard used this, and it fit neatly into the system, I installed mine using a 120 GB Patriot Burst drive and Kingwin SATA to IDE adapter, so my pictures differ. His OWC product is a neat, all-in-one solution.)
Removing the Old HDD
Remove the control unit from the piano by first unscrewing the parallel port connector using the two flat blade nuts on the sides of the port.
Unplug all the cables and then carefully unscrew the control unit from the piano. It is very heavy, so carefully lift it down and turn it over.
Unscrew all the black screws on the top face of the control unit that would normally be against your piano. This surface is the unpainted, silver surface.
Carefully remove the two plugs from the hard drive. Unscrew the drive underneath using a Phillips screwdriver with lots of pressure taking care not to strip the screws.
The original spinning disk, at rest
Imaging the Old HDD
At this point, you’ll need to copy the contents of the old hard drive into an image file.
Make certain you have enough space to store a complete image! The file will be 80 GB total.
Windows
If you’re using Windows, you can use Win32 Disk Imager to take an image of the old disk. I’ve also had people recommend Balena Etcher, although I was unable to get it to work reliably on Windows 10.
Mac
To create your own backup on Linux or Mac, you can use the dd instruction in a terminal. Note that you’ll need to adjust /dev/sdX to be whatever the location of your hard disk is! On Mac, this will be similar to /dev/rdiskX.
You can write IMG files to a disk using Win32 Disk Imager. As mentioned above, I’ve also had people recommend Balena Etcher, but haven’t gotten it to work on Windows 10 myself.
Mac
Using the terminal, type in “diskutil list” command shown as below, then press “Enter” to list all the disks in your Mac computer. Take down the number of your USB drive. Here assume that the USB drive number is “2”.
Type in the following command, replacing “#” with your USB drive number.
diskutil unmountDisk /dev/disk#
Then press “Enter” to unmount it.
Type in the following command. Replace “/path/to/your.img” by dragging the image file from the Finder into terminal.
Then press “Enter” to burn the IMG image file to the USB drive.
Unmount your USB drive, put the red adapter back on, and screw it into your Disklavier top assembly. You will need to use the middle screws to give it enough room to be able to have the cable attached and close it.
Voilà! You have now updated your system and changed your drive to solid state!
My Patriot Burst SSD, mounted directly to the top plate.
I was able to line up the Patriot Burst drive with the cooling holes on the upper plate such that I could screw it directly in place
I recently encountered a Yamaha PSR-S750 with a couple of issues that appear to be quite common in this series. I wanted to share my experience in the hope that it might help someone in the future.
Sudden Shutdowns
The customer initially reported that the keyboard would display an error message at irregular intervals and then require a restart. This issue turned out to be related to a known problem with the main DM board. Apparently, early versions of this board have a tendency to delaminate, leading to errors such as the following:
“Unexpected error! Turn the power off and on again.”
However, the board can fail in various ways, including issues with powering on, sudden shutdowns, and more. The recommended solution is to replace the DM board (part #WZ353701). Unfortunately, this is not a cheap fix—the part currently costs around $503 on Full Compass (as of August 2024), though a Yamaha service provider may be able to offer it at a lower price.
Keyboard Turns On but Won’t Turn Off
This is an interesting issue. The power switch on this keyboard is a rubber button that, when depressed, completes a circuit to ground. Over time, as the button ages and the graphite on its underside degrades, it does continue to complete the circuit, but the resistance increases. Eventually, this high-resistance path is enough to signal the keyboard to turn on, but not enough to signal it to turn off. Diagnosing this issue can be tricky because the button consistently powers the keyboard on, even though it is the source of the problem.
The replacement button is part #WZ960401. Replacing it involves removing the entire front panel, making it a somewhat involved process. It would be wise to have a copy of the service manual on hand before attempting this repair.
Notably, the same issue can occur in the PSR-S770, PSR-S950, and PSR-S970.
Finally, make sure to update your Yamaha PSR-S750 to the latest firmware!Download the latest firmware file, put it on a USB stick, and insert the USB stick into your PSR-S750. Then Power On the keyboard while holding the Start/Stop button (below the LCD screen). You’ll be guided through the update.
You can see based on the pictures below that the Nalbantov slim is slightly too small to fill the entire cavity left by the original floppy disk drive. Additionally, there are no mounts of any kind to hold the Nalbantov in place. This insert solves both problems: The drive screws into the insert at just the right distance and depth, and the insert also buffers the area around the outside of the drive.
The insert installed over the screw positions of the original floppy disk drive.I 3D printed the spacers at 50% infill so they’d be fairly solid. These spacers allow you to use the original machine screws that hold down the OEM floppy disk drive, which is a huge advantage. No visits to the hardware store!
I have a customer who recently experienced an issue with his Yamaha Disklavier HQ100. The HQ100 is the Japanese version of the MX100II. He primarily uses this instrument over MIDI, and finds the Disklavier quite useful.
This discussion should apply to other models of Yamaha Disklavier. Although the solenoids and part numbers differ between models, the general concept remains similar.
The symptom was that, when started, the MX100II would play a single key at maximum velocity. It would sustain it for several seconds before releasing. Additionally, the system emitted a noisy whine while powered on. This noise turned out to be a failed power supply, and a replacement resolved that particular symptom. However, despite this, the system would still play one single key after powering on and then fail to respond to any subsequent commands.
The key that was playing was a low D (specifically, D1). I disassembled the instrument and inspected the solenoid for that key. The solenoid assembly was exuding an enormous amount of heat. The burned coil can be seen below.
There was also considerable damage to the inside of the coil assembly. The solenoid was unable to move fully back down into the rest position, as the assembly was badly melted.
A burned out solenoid alongside a healthy one.
Diagnosis
I replaced the solenoid; however, this did not solve the problem. The new solenoid would activate and rapidly heat up. At one point, F1 activated instead of D1, adding an interesting twist.
I disconnected CN201, meaning that the Drive C solenoid drive board was still receiving power from the Disklavier but wasn’t receiving a signal. This isolated the problem to the Drive C board. Replacing the solenoids made it clear that they weren’t the issue. Therefore, the problem had to be somewhere on the PCB below:
I traced the circuitry back from the solenoid. In the image above, the D1 key solenoid is plugged into CN207. I verified that diodes D213-D224 were all behaving correctly (between 400-600 mV forward, and 0 back). Eventually, I was able to trace the behavior to the transistor array. My current theory is that the transistor array failed, causing current to run to the solenoid continuously. The solenoid eventually melted the plastic sleeve. This would also explain why the F1 solenoid activated in place of the D1 during later tests—both key solenoids are attached to the same failing transistor array.
This is the failed component. In the MX100II, this transistor array (2NTH3L20 / Yamaha #VB293700) has been discontinued. However, the equivalent array is NX551020 available through Digikey.
I recently had a client request I replace the stock GH3 action in her Yamaha CVP-305 with a Yamaha Natural Wood action, and I had an opportunity to do some experimenting.
The Yamaha GH3 keyboard action can be replaced with the NW-GH3 action, the GH3X action, or the NWX action. All four of the actions below seem to be interchangeable, with the features as listed:
Plastic
Wood
No Escapement
GH3
NW-GH3
Escapement
GH3X
NWX
Her favorite action was the NW-GH3. Although there’s some subjectivity, we mutually agreed that the natural wood actions were lighter than the plastic equivalents (which is a bit counter-intuitive initially), and that the escapement added perceived weight.
In other words, we found that the NW-GH3 action was the lightest action, perceptibly, and the GH3X was the heaviest.
I recently had a customer report their P105 was producing no sound, although occasionally, it emitted a scratchy noise. Attached to this post is a picture of the burned out chip I found inside the unit. The solution was a replacement DM board (Yamaha #ZJ257000).
My Yamaha Disklavier just makes a ‘Pop’ when I press the power button and doesn’t light up. Or it whines loudly while it’s running, and then powers off? Can you fix it?
Yes! If you have an older Yamaha Disklavier from the 90s, this is a very common problem, and usually indicates that the power supply has failed. I can box it up and send it to Tap Electronics, who can then rebuild it. At present (8/17/24), this is a flat-rate service provided by Tap for $750. Tap Electronics is authorized by Yamaha.
This message concerns second generation Disklavier, such as the MX100II or the DKC100R, or the DKC500R. All of these use variations of the same power supply.
My Yamaha Disklavier runs for a few seconds (or even a few minutes), but then turns off. Can you fix it?
Yes! You might have a power supply that’s dying (in which case, see the answer to the last question). However, you might simply have a damaged power button. You can test this by wiggling the power button side-to-side with your finger. When they wear out, sometimes even just the vibrations of the piano can cause them to switch on and off. These buttons aren’t terribly difficult to replace; however, they’re discontinued.
Their (discontinued) Yamaha Part number is VN388300. The switch itself is a (discontinued) ALPS SPPH23. You can see a spec sheet for the ALPS SPPH230500 here. Unfortunately, I haven’t found an exact duplicate, and would love to know if you have. I purchase bulk generic locking switches from Amazon and use sandpaper to shape them to size.
This message concerns second generation Disklaviers, such as the MX100II or the DKC100R, or the DKC500R. All of these use variations of the same power supply.
I can’t figure out how to connect my Yamaha Disklaver to the internet. Can you help?
Yes! I wrote a definitive guide on connecting the Disklavier wirelessly. I don’t generally recommend using the native wireless adapters that come with your device, which are clumsy and confusing. I use PowerLine adapters, which allow you to broadcast your network signal right through the power lines in your house! This technology means neither you nor your piano ever have to adjust and reconfigure anything. No keeping track of passwords, no weak signals, and no need to call a technician every time you buy a new router. Just plug in your piano and marvel at its spontaneous, excellent internet connection.
This works in most homes, although in particularly large houses or houses with old wiring the PowerLine adapters might have trouble. In that case, the best device to use is a WiFi extender mounted underneath the piano.
This message concerns later Disklaviers, starting with the fourth generation Mark IV, the DKC800, and the modern-day Enspire.
Can you replace or upgrade old floppy drives?
Replacement is sometimes an option, and upgrading always is. Most manufacturers have stopped producing replacement drives, but they can often still be purchased second hand. eBay is a good resource.
However, I recommend upgrading to a USB floppy disk emulator. The Bulgarian company Nalbantov Electronics manufactures USB floppy disk emulators specifically for older digital pianos and players. These systems allow you to use a single USB stick in place of dozens (if not hundreds) of floppy disks. As solid-state devices these are considerably more durable and long-lasting than old-fashioned floppy drives.
With some generations of Disklavier (most notably Mark II / MX100II / MX100A / MX100B devices), the floppy disk drives are mounted behind a shaped plastic piece. In these cases, you’ll need to cut away the old plastic facing (a pair of flush-cut nippers is helpful here), install the new drive, and put some kind of buffer around it. I’ve experimented with a few different choices for something functional and attractive. Neoprene works to fill in the around the drive, but it doesn’t help much with keeping the Nalbantov securely in place.
I have a 3D model of a floppy bezel that’s sized to fit around a Nalbantov. You can 3D print this yourself, or you can order one from me. This mount holds the Nalbantov in place, and also fills in the gaps around the edges. It’s an all-in-one solution for mounting the Nalbantov, and allows you to reuse the same screws the original floppy disk drive was installed with.
This message concerns first through fourth generation Disklaviers, such as the DKC5R, the MX100II, the DKC100R, the DKC500R, and the Mark IV. All of these systems use floppy disks.
What do I do with all of my old Yamaha Disklavier floppy disks?
If you’d prefer not to transfer them yourselves, this is a service I offer! If you’d like, you can send all of your floppy disks to me, and I can prepare them all either for your newer player system or for a floppy disk emulator!
This message concerns first through fourth generation Disklaviers, such as the DKC5R, the MX100II, the DKC100R, the DKC500R, and the Mark IV. All of these systems use floppy disks.
My Disklavier used to connect to the internet, but hasn’t for the last few years!
Several years ago, in the fall of 2020, Yamaha updated their security protocols. Suddenly, all of their slightly older Disklaviers, including the popular Mark IV, DKC-800, and DKC-850, could no longer talk to the Yamaha mothership!
If you were turning your Disklavier on regularly, the update would have been forced upon you. However, if you weren’t doing this, you missed your chance! Fortunately, you can still install the update manually.
Yamaha Disklaviers are an innovative fusion of digital and acoustic engineering, but connecting your Disklavier to internet is somehow still very challenging! They allow you to experience famous, concert pianists performing right in your living room, on your piano. They’re an excellent tool for both entertainment and for learning. And of course, they’re just fun to watch. Take a look at this beautiful 2009 Yamaha GC1 Disklavier playing Billy Joel’s Piano Man that I recorded last summer.
They do have one drawback: Connecting your Disklavier to Wi-Fi networks can be confusing and difficult. Yamaha provides the UD-WL01 adapter, but this is not an intuitive device: Is your Disklavier acting as an access point for other devices, or are you connecting your Disklavier to Wi-Fi as a client? Is it doing both? Can you tell from the instructions what you’re expected to do, and how you’re supposed to use the Disklavier and connect to the internet at the same time?
I’m sharing an incredibly elegant, simple way to connect Yamaha Disklaviers to the internet. You don’t have to worry about reconnecting it if you change your Wi-Fi password or buy a new router. You can set it up quickly, and it works in most houses.
Supplies
A little redundant labeling makes all the difference. And Small-Caps adds some style.
These devices allow you to network through the electrical lines in a house. Your piano will believe it has a physical connection, and you won’t need to do any further configuration!
These devices are effortless to use once they’re paired: All you have to do to keep your piano connected is plug them in!
Make certain that the adapters are plugged directly into outlets, or into the surge protector below. Power conditioners, universal power supplies, or even higher-end surge protectors interfere with their signal. Similarly, they must be plugged into circuits that are in the same breaker box. Multiple breaker boxes or sub-panels can interfere with the signal.
This is an 8-foot extension cord with a three port power strip on the end. It calls itself a surge protector, but doesn’t do any regulation or conditioning which might interfere with the NexusLink signal.
I did a tear-down of the device to make sure there were no surprises: Surge protection is achieved through a metal oxide varistor, and there is no voltage regulation beyond that.
With piano work, subtlety is a must. Anywhere black or concealed equipment can be used, I use it. Three foot cords have always been more than enough for me. In many installations, I’ll even use one-foot cords. More cord just means more to hide.
These are strong, interlocking fasteners that aren’t vulnerable to vibration, and are strong enough to hold up the end of the extension cord. I’ve also used very large (2′) zip ties wrapped around the beams underneath the piano, and these work well.
Installation and Connection
A basic diagram of the installation.
1. Prepare and Pair NexusLink Adapters Beforehand
Remove the two NexusLink Adapters from their box and plug them both into the outlets where you intend for them to go. One will be next to the router and, and the other will be plugged into the extension cord you intend to put underneath the piano. No Ethernet connections are necessary at this time.
If the green connection lights on your NexusLinks turn on (the top light on each adapter), that means they’ve found one another, and are now communicating through your household power. Great!
Now you can secure their connection to each other. On the bottom of each unit (near the Ethernet jack) there’s a small configuration button. Hold it down for three seconds, and the bottom of the three lights—labeled with a padlock—will begin to blink. Now press the same button on the other NexusLink for three seconds. After a short period of time, the padlock lights will turn solid. Then, some seconds later, the connection lights should turn solid as well.
These two NexusLinks are now a permanently bonded pair. No matter where you put them, they’ll find one another. In fact, they’re so tightly paired that they’ll even ignore other NexusLinks.
A NexusLink plugged into a power strip, with a ghastly yellow Ethernet plugged into it.
With the Disklavier turned off, unplug the Disklavier.
Pick a good spot to mount the power strip underneath the piano. This is usually parallel to the floor on the side of one of the wooden beams adjacent to the Disklavier controller. (Also, make certain if there is a Dampp-Chaser installed, make sure the NexusLink isn’t near the humidistat, where the small amount of heat it produces might cause less accurate readings.)
Wipe the area down with alcohol. Take two pieces of your Scotch Interlocking Fastener and, after removing the backing, affix both to the back of the power strip. Mount the power strip to the beam.
If possible, try to route the power cord over a beam. This will keep it a more secure in the event it gets pulled on. You can even loop it around the beam once if you have enough cord.
3. Plug everything in
Plug your other NexusLink Powerline Ethernet Adapter into the bottom port of the three of your power strip. Run a short length of Ethernet cord to your Disklavier controller. If possible, loop the Ethernet cord up over the beam to apply a bit of tension. Pianos produce plenty of shaking and vibration, so keep things as secure as possible. Use no more cable than you need.
Now plug the Disklavier power into the power strip (and the Dampp-Chaser as well if one is installed). This extension cord is comfortably rated for the power consumption of all three devices.
At this time, both the green connection lights should be on, and both the padlock lights, meaning the NexusLink Adapters have discovered one another. If this isn’t the case, skip to the troubleshooting below.
Use zip-ties, twist ties, and other appropriate cable management to bundle everything up and out of sight. Stick-on conduit can be used to run cords along the beams if precise positioning is needed, such as if the piano is positioned next to a low couch or somewhere else people might easily see underneath. I’ll actually sit in various chairs in the room and look at the piano.
You’re all done! If it doesn’t work immediately, read on.
No connection! What went wrong?
First: It’s probably a power strip or Universal Power Supply (UPS)
Do not plug either Powerline adapter into a power strip or surge protector if you can avoid it. These often filter out the signal. Only simple power strips (like the GE one I recommend) will not block the signal. When in doubt, plug directly into the wall. And don’t forget to check the adapter that’s near your router. This also needs to be plugged directly into the wall.
Second: It might be the outlet
If the outlet isn’t receiving power, it won’t work. Make sure that the outlet can power other devices, and that it isn’t controlled by a switch.
Third: It might be the breaker boxes
If the house has multiple breaker boxes, then the devices might not be able to see each other. In this case, try different outlets. You can try changing outlets both near the piano and near the router.
Has it been working for a while, but suddenly stopped?
As with many other pieces of sensitive electronics, if it’s been behaving and suddenly stops, you should power cycle the devices. Unplug each Powerline adapter in turn and plug it back in. If that doesn’t work, pair the adapters again in the manner described in step one.
Other Options to Connect your Disklavier to Wi-Fi
If none of the available outlets work, you’ll need to try a different approach. This article is specifically on the Powerline adapter technique, but you’ll need to consider using a Wi-Fi bridge, since the Powerline adapters won’t work for you. These bridges are also an easy way to connect your Disklavier to Wi-Fi, but will require you to update your login information if your network changes.
